Got my Original Prusa i3 MK2 Kit from the folks over at voxelfactory.com delivered last week. It took a few days chipping away at the build to complete everything. Thanks to the very well written and graphically demonstrated instructions it was a easy build.
One tip for anyone doing the build, pay close attention to the last step when plugging all the wires into the board, look at the images closely and make sure the LCD panel cables are inserted in the correct orientation. I made a mistake there and when I was ready to "switch on" my printer, nothing happened! Tracking back I realized my LCD cables were not correctly connected. Phew!
The first thing you want to do after the build is to make sure you are running the latest firmware. Flash to the latest firmware before you do the calibration because every time you do the firmware upgrade you also need to re-calibrate.
I spent a few days troubleshooting my first print, it would NOT stick to the bed at all. After a few forum threads I realized my Z calibration was out of alignment and I needed to use the "Live Adjust Z" setting during the print to lower the print nozzle to the bed. For the nozzle to come closer to the bed surface you must adjust in negative values, for me the sweet spot was -0.250mm. It took me awhile to figure that out and I was trying all other settings thinking I already tried to calibrate Z (you can see in one of the pictures the many failed attempts).
Some other pointers that helped my first layer stick well for a PLA print:
- Use Simplify3D program with latest FFF profile for your MK2 from Prusa's website
- Set layer 1 and 2 to print slower, I set it to 40%
- Set the extruder temperature for the first two layers to be 220 and the heatbed to 60
These settings may or may not work for your printer, this is something I gathered from my research and trolling the 3d printer forums.
My first print was an enclosure for a Raspberry Pi camera module v2 that attaches to the MK2 bed so that I can live view and record my prints. The idea behind this is to also monitor the print remotely and be able to cut the power if the print goes sideways.